Leaving Bishkek

Got up at 05:00 to begin the next phase of my Central Asian journey. Those of us relocating to the Naryn campus left Bishkek today to move into our new home in the mountains.

Sometimes I've been very happy to leave a place, other times I've been filled with sadness. Bishkek is somewhere in between. I didn't live there long enough to establish roots, but I also liked the place, despite its idiosyncrasies. Actually, now that I think about it, I enjoyed Bishkek because of its idiosyncrasies. While almost every former Soviet city outside of Russia has worked to erase its old Sovietness, Bishkek retains much of its old Soviet monumental architecture and stern ambience. The feeling of living in an old Soviet time capsule that you experience in certain neighborhoods, for some, might be surreal or strange, and in reality it is, but yet it is reminiscent of the feeling you get when listening to old Disco songs: you know that both Soviet life and Disco music are best left in the past, still they both do stir a jarring mix of feelings of a time gone by.

Despite its Soviet feel, Bishkek also has a colorful side represented by places like the Osh Bazaar and the tranquil oases of various parks. There's a cultural and arts scene that seems to be budding. I found several interesting restaurants, including a Japanese sushi restaurant with extraordinary seafood. How that is possible thousands of miles from the sea, I do not know. And, of course, there are the wonderful views of the distant mountains.

But there are ominous warning signs. Dozens of luxury apartment buildings are being erected at breakneck speed. Bishkek is living in what appears to be a gigantic housing bubble. What will happen when that bubble bursts? I'm not optimistic about the nature and the severity of the potential fallout. And the air pollution...in winter it can be as bad as some of the worst smog I have ever seen.

Now that I am gone and will only be making rare visits to Bishkek, I can envision my return visits feeling like a trip to see an old friend. I am glad to have made Bishkek an acquaintance and know that I am better for the experience.

The stern Soviet architecture of the Concert Hall...

...contrasted with a city of flowers

The picture I took out the window as I left my office in Bishkek for the very last time